Another Backpacker experience, the Luang Prabang Lao New Year, other known as Songkran or Sabaidee Pi Mai Lao!

 

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Laos traditional parade costumes.

Lao New Year, called Songkran or Pii Mai is happening right now. I left Thailand hoping to catch some action over in Laos but I had no idea what an experience I was in for. Very glad that I made the trip, and now marks the third new years that I have celebrated in 4 months. Interesting enough, the first was in Gokarna,India on the white sand beaches, the second was Chinese New Year in China Town Bangkok, Thailand, and now the third and most exciting I must add Luang Prabang, Laos.

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A huge crowd amasses for the New Years Parade Luang Prabang, laos

When is New Years?
From my experience here in Luang Prabang, Laos. I have been told that the official festival lasts for three days from April 13 to April 15. Although in Luang Prabang the people here are holding celebrations all week.  I was told that the first day of celebration is the last day of the old year like new years eve in the west. Then the second day of the festival is like New Years day, but here it is the in between, the purgatory “The day of no days”. I was told this is a day that falls in neither the old year or the new year but it is still a party day. Then the last day of the festivities and celebrations kicks off the start of the new year.

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Beautiful people, Laos New Years parade, Luang Prabang.

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New Years Prayers and Reflection on life.

I arrived at the start of the pre party, or so I thought. I wasn’t one hour off the boat and not 10 minutes into my first tuk tuk ride into the heart of the city before I got nailed with a bucket of water from some family. Every 3 meters the asphalt was soaked from tossing water.

Before I even had reached a guest house I was pretty wet and had to dodge, bob and weave through back alleyways and side streets.. From this point on I knew I needed to cover my camera, my laptop and whatever else I had but was intrigued to capture some moments of this festivity non the less.

Worshiping and reflecting.
As much of the festivities are rolled out, the New Year is also a time to visit the temples for worshiping.

Flowers and Gardens.
Small relics, homes, temples and Buddha images are adorned with flowers; Flowers are bought and sold many shops and street vendors sell them to bring to the monks at the Wats, Temples grounds  and the riverbanks for worship. Like celebrating your own religious holiday I feel that everyone follows the tradition but many  may do it a little different but maintaining  key values and principles.

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A woman give thanks, in prayer. Flowers and arrangement are made for the New Year celebration.

Bird cages, live fish and turtles oh my.
Another way for people to receive well wishes in the new year is to set animals free. Small little bird cages made of wicker are made to hold tiny birds for purchase and are sold. fish are bought in the markets not for eating but to be released into the rivers and lakes some in the salt water oceans and I even saw some turtles.

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Small Bird cages and floral arrangements can be found all over.

What is up with the water?  Why is everyone throwing water on each other?
Originally the water is perfumed with flora or flowers and is dripped or poured on monks and elders as a sign of respect, well wishes and prosperity in the new year.

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Monks gently being splashed with water. praises from the new year.

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Lao New Year: A man gently pours water on an elderly man, as a sign of respect and well wishes for the new year.

Later it has evolved into a festival of dosing friends and family, and it now has become common to see almost every street corner shop sitting outside with buckets of water and hoses splashing and tossing water on passing cars, motorbikes and people. I of course fell victim, but enjoyed every minute of it.

Here are some shots from the past three days in Luang Prabang, Lao New Years local and tourist hub locations.

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A father pours water on his son, during the second day festivities of Laos New Years. Luang Prabang, Laos

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A few monks stand watching from a distance the water festivities going on across the street. Luang Prabang, Laos

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Sometime colors are added to the water like the orange seen in this one to replicate the flora added for good luck. Each toss, is a well wish in the new year.

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Nailed, with a bucket of water.

Why are their colors of powder being thrown too?
The powders, creams, colors, and dies all are in good fun. From my questioning a few locals they seemed to all have the same response, “same same but different”. I think they were recalling the color is a new age way of throwing flowers mixed in water. I really didn’t get an informative answer, nor did I really care. There were all sorts of colors being added, white flour, or powder, shaving cream and various others rich color additives are added to the water or used to smear on people. My white beefy T shirt will never be the same again.

Remember it’s all in good health but don’t drink the water..
 When a Laotian is throwing a bucket of water on you, even though you are already soaks and have had enough, enjoy it, as it is their tradition and it’s all in good fun. Do not forget you traveled to their country buddy, live it up. It’s wishing you good health and fortune, so soak it up. Literally.

Three Laotion monks and an American traveler chilling on a hot summer day.

Sometimes I wonder how lucky I am not only to travel this world but to meet the people that I do. Then I remember that it was a choice I made, I could be at a desk somewhere looking at my screensaver just day dreaming like I was back in 2009.

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The elder monk directly to my left  asked me to come teach the other monks basic English. Luang Prabang, Laos

Today I woke up to my daily ritual then sat contemplating what community service work I would do in Laos as I am on a quest to volunteer in each country that I visit. I suddenly became overwhelmed with the sensations.  I suddenly became frustrated and somewhat upset with myself. I questioned “What am I doing here? Why does it matter?”

Then I stopped, put down the pen and paper, took my camera and headed out the door in a frustrated yet wanderlust bolt. Where to, I had no idea.

I explored a little outside the main tourist hot spots in Luang Prabang, venturing deeper into the local scenic route, then found myself passing by a warn down yet beautiful white, maroon, and golden Wat (temple).

I decided to venture into the premises to say a few prayers and meditate for a short sit. I don’t really have a particular religion but I do believe that there is something out there far greater than just me, and that I give great respect to. So I said some things for the people around the world, sending out my best meta. Then for my cousin and his wife who are going through a tough pregnancy who were rushed to the hospital last night. I gave thanks to everything that I have in life and the people I have connected with. I lit a few candles and just listened to my heart beat. I then felt better and left the temple, walking around the grounds in peace.

This is when I met a few monks resting in the shade under an old warn down building. Feeling calm and relaxed, I said my greetings “sabai di” (“hello-good health”) and pressed my palms together in a prayer gesture known as a “nop”). They reciprocated with smiles “sabai di”.

There were a few younger monks passing and coming interested in the big white foreigner, as for two of them spoke decent English enough to hold basic conversation with me.  After standing a little I sat with them on the old wooden bench shown in the photograph above. I spent a couple hours talking with these monk about their lives and the city. They in turn asked me about my travels. Only an handful of them speak English out of thirty monks at this temple some passing and interested to see what was going on with us. The elder monk said they are eager to learn and asked if I could come back to the temple and teach basic English classes. I thought about what I was doing, could I thought? I was smiling and thinking this has got to be one of those moments, a sign as I flashed back to this morning when I had been contemplating my community service/ volunteering initiative for Laos. I said we could work something out.

Thrilled, the elder monk (I forgot how to pronounce/ spell his name) asked if I could come back and teach them classes in English conversation tomorrow already. I laughed, and said how long do you want me to stay? He told me however long you have sir. I told them I would arrange my schedule to see what I can do.

How could I turn him down? This was a sign if there were any signs floating around from my troubled mind this morning. I wasn’t planning on staying in Luang Prabang longer than a couple days, however to teach English at a temple in Laos might be more rewarding than any sight seeing experience.

Maybe I should warn them ahead of time that my grammar in writing is sub par. 

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The golden doors of the temple, Luang Prabang, Laos.

Boat down the Mekong River

The past two days have pretty much been spent on a boat floating slowly down the Mekong river from Thailand to Laos. They say “slow boat” but really it isn’t too slow, if we hit something it would do some damage… Ha! But overall it wasn’t slow but it wasn’t fast. At some points we hit a few rapids that were pretty unpredictable and splashed a bit of water up into the boat of course giving everyone a laugh and an “ooooo and an ahhh” effect.

Overall the boats moved pretty quick, but in retrospect I guess over the course of two days it can be called a slow boat. And we parked half way through to spend the night in a little village that sold over priced food and overpriced accommodations. Supply and demand was the excuse I supposed. None the less the sleepy little village was a nice break from the boat, and made the trip complete as I was able to converse with my new Chinese friends over a hot meal and power outages.

Over the course of the two days on the river we passed through different villages. It was beautiful to see the landscape and the people. The bamboo huts and the men out on their skinny boats fishing. there was vast space between each village so it made a good mix for the adventure.

I am editing some notes that I had written about the course of the past three days. But I wanted to just say a few things the best part of travel is meeting people.

I will say that time and again. As much as I love being alone and out in the world traveling, when I meet some people that I find interesting it makes a world of a difference. This trip was one of those instances; I just met some amazing women from Argentina and a hand full of people from China and four folks from Germany on the boat. Over the course of two days I spent time with the Chinese people last night for a dinner, and tonight I met up with the guys from Germany and the Argentina girls. Our time together was short but I hope to stay connected to them some how or another. I feel throughout my journey over the past two years that this is the number one question I get asked. What is your favorite part of travel? My answer. Meeting the people.

All of our stories were unique and interesting, we had lots to share and learn from each other. All rewarding and interesting stories, I’d say in the big picture of life It was a fast education on a slow boat down the Mekong.

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Sandstone cliff. Mekong River. Laos

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local man on the mountain over looking the docked boats.

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Mekong River boat dock. laos

Crossing the border from Thailand to Laos over the Mekong Rver

The process from Chiang Khong, Thailand over the Mekong River to Hauy Xai, Laos including check out and check in to the other side can be easy but also easy to miss a step, so hopefully this post will give insight on the steps you need to go through.

Once you are in Chiang Khong, you will be excited or you should be. For me I was tired and warn down from the two months in Thailand, but was feeling the blood rush as I was embarking on a new country.Depending on the means of transportation you are traveling by, more than likely if you are coming from another region the driver will drop you off on the main soi/street short of the docks. If so, you can grab a tuk tuk taxi- or walk down to customs about half a kilometer from the main drop off. From the main road, walk down the hill, stop to the left of the boat ramp at a small blue building with an overhang where you will see people filling out papers on the left and people coming up from the Mekong River and singing in on the right. Not hard to miss. Grab a form, fill out the exit requirements give your passport through the small window to the person in the customs office. You won’t need any money to exit, so hold tight, the official will review your stay and if everything is ok, they will stamp you out of Thailand.

After you are stamped out you can walk down to get a boat taxi over the river.
Then proceed down till you see some steps down to the river bank. At the waters shore are a line of taxi boats, you will see some locals sitting under a tent charging a fixed 40 Baht charge to travel across the Mekong into Huay Xai Laos. Buy the ticket, no point in negotiating, they know you NEED to cross and are not lowering their price. It’s only a five minute boat ride.

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From the top of Chiang Khong, looking over the Mekong River to Laos and taxi boats.

Leaving Thailand
After buying a ticket you walk to any boat that is open, sit down on the wobbling boat, try not to be that person who falls. It happens, I saw someone spill. and get comfortable, or at least try. The trip across is a quick 5 minutes, enjoy the breeze. Once  you pick which boat to get on to remember try not to over pack all your friends into one boat, as you and your luggage will weigh it down and heaps of water will splash up into the boat as you cross. It is not fun with the water gets into the boat, I’ve seen people bucketing water out, and travelers getting their gear soaked. Just keep your backpack on, and sit one person to a bench as they are only about one meter/yard wide.

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my taxi boat pulling away from the river banks of Chiang Khong thailand0

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That is Thailand. Behind me is Laos, under me is the Mekong river. above me is the universe. I am here to explore them all.

Then on the other side enjoy and smile as you take your first step off the boat onto Laotian soil.

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My first step into Laos from the taxi boat.

Before I forget, DO NOT FORGET TO CHECK OUT
Oh yes this happens everyday here at this location I was told by an offical. People in a hurry to cross the river from Thailand to Laos forget or simply just walk past the customs check point in Chiang Khong to board the 40 Baht water taxi across the Mekong River, waiting line and find out an hour later that they have to go back and check out of Thailand. From my experience it was couple from England standing in front of me on the Laos side, like everyone else they waited in line had their entrance paper work ready and visa on arrival forms but were turned to go back across the border to get signed/stamped out of Thailand.

This was inevitably not just a hassle for them to go back across the Mekong river, up the banks wait in line check out walk through the process all over again but they lost time and missed their slow boat. thus had to spend the night in the city they hadn’t planned on and taking an extra day off their thirty day visa plans.

Checking into Customs in Huay Xai, Laos
Once off the old narrow taxi boat, Walk up the cement boat ramp, head right up some stairs, walk to the window that says VISA ON ARRIVAL  It is hear that you will fill out two different pieces of paperwork one small, one large, hand over your passport, one small ID photo, Depending on what country you come from the fee varies a few dollars, for US citizens it is 35 US Dollars. Then wait for them to review your document. You are granted a thirty day Visa on arrival.

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Welcome to Laos. Visa on Arrival

Once you are checked into Huay Xai, Laos, head further up the narrow road to a second checkpoint
Yes a second check point so keep your passport out. It is just a precaution for them to make sure everyone checked in so hand your passport to the guard. He will review the passport, they double check your documentation then waive you through. Make your way to the top of the street to a three way intersection. if you go any further you will be walking up over 100 steps to a temple.

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if you have come to thses steps rejoice you are now checked fully into Laos.

 So stop there and breath, then turn around and look at Thailand across the mighty Mekong River.

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Stand proud traveler, you made it! Pat yourself on the back or give your buddy and a local a high five.